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Jun 22, 2012
Comments Off on How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Decomposing Mulch

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

  • moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
  • warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
  • if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
  • any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)
Jun 22, 2012
Comments Off on How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Decomposing Mulch

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

  • moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
  • warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
  • if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
  • any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)
Jun 22, 2012
Comments Off on How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Decomposing Mulch

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

  • moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
  • warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
  • if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
  • any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)
Jun 22, 2012
Comments Off on How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Decomposing Mulch

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

  • moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
  • warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
  • if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
  • any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

The post How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil? appeared first on Mulch & Wood Chip Sales in Sydney.

Jun 22, 2012
Comments Off on How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Decomposing Mulch

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

  • moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
  • warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
  • if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
  • any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)
Feb 28, 2012
Comments Off on Beginners Guide to Composting

Beginners Guide to Composting

Garden Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

  • kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
  • green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
  • brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
  • waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

 

Feb 28, 2012
Comments Off on Beginners Guide to Composting

Beginners Guide to Composting

Garden Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

  • kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
  • green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
  • brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
  • waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

 

Feb 28, 2012
Comments Off on Beginners Guide to Composting

Beginners Guide to Composting

Garden Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

  • kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
  • green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
  • brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
  • waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

 

Feb 28, 2012
Comments Off on Beginners Guide to Composting

Beginners Guide to Composting

Garden Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

  • kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
  • green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
  • brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
  • waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

 

Nov 25, 2011
Comments Off on Arborist Organic Mulches

Arborist Organic Mulches

Fresh Mulch

Fresh Mulch from Arborist Job

Organic mulches consist of natural plant-produced materials such as branches, twigs, dead wood, bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles, grass clippings, fruits and flowers to name a few. There are also inorganic mulches too (like gravel, pebbles, plastic, fabric) which also serve a purpose but are less environment friendly than organics. The main difference between organic and inorganic mulches is that organic mulches breakdown over time, releasing nutrients into the soil and will require replacement every few years.

Arborist Mulch
Mulch from an arborist varies according to the trees being removed, or the land being cleared. You can contact your local arborist and ask them what fresh mulch they are supplying over the coming weeks. They often will give you the best price for premium mulch compared to buying it from a nursery, and on occasion they will be able to offer less-than-premium mulch that they would be selling at a discounted price that would be a nominal fee for labour and transport costs. Some common types of mulch that arborists produce include;

Fresh Mulch
Consists mainly of bark, pine needles, leaves, and wood chip. It should be spread in a 2 to 3 inch layer and is effective as weed control. It is best to let it rest for a week allowing it to be less green before spreading across your garden. It is an attractive, pleasant smelling, green-coloured mulch. Some bark may float in water and relocate during heavy rains, but most water will penetrate through the mulch easily. It is excellent for providing nutrients to trees, shrubs and palms and will attract an assortment of garden loving insects.

Compost Bin

Grass clipping drying in a compost bin

DIY Home Composting
Normal household and garden waste can be used as mulch in your garden. If you can’t reduce you waste, at least you can reuse and recycle! You have to be careful to select non-seeding organic matter for use as compost mulch. If seeds are included they will likely germinate and take over your garden. Compost normally starts with leftovers such as vegetables, meat scraps (keep away from house they get stinky), dead flowers, and other wasted foods. These can be mixed in with grass clippings that form a good bulk and based. The grass clippings will decompose rapidly adding nutrients back into the soil. Dry grass should be used instead of fresh clippings, and never use grass clippings from a lawn that has had an herbicide treatment.  Leaves from deciduous trees and from your pools skimmer box can also be used. Whole leaves have a tendency of being blown by the wind so it is best to shrew the leaves using a shredder or your lawn mower. Leaves will last longer than grass, and also improve the soil as they decompose. Some types of leaves will chance the acidity of the soil (normally for the better) but it is good to check the PH of the soil regularly. Compost should be added to your garden beds in a 8 to 12 cm (3 to 4 inch) layers for optimum benefits. It will need replacing every 6 to 12 months.

Written by Sydney Tree Removals