Organic Soil

There are many different types of soil throughout Australia, ranging from dry and sandy Tenosol which is largely infertile to rich dark Dermosol which retain adequate water and have good agricultural potential.  Soil may be too acidic, too alkaline, too saturated with minerals, too dry, too damp and too deficient of minerals to be any good for agriculture.  But each of these soils may be improved by breaking them up with organic matter.  With organic matter, found in varying quantities in all soils, comes a host of micro-organisms.  For this reason, it is an offence to take soil from one state to another in Australia.

So-called Organic Soil is simply soil which has been enhanced with organic matter in order to build up an ecosystem which is not reliant on chemicals for plant growth, weed control or as a pesticide.  As organic soil is being built over time, a positive relationship develops between micro-organisms in the soil, vegetation and insects.  An eco-system is established, allowing earthworms and other insects to thrive, which in turn provides nutrition to the plant life so that they grow hardy and resistant to diseases.  The long term benefit for vegetation grown in organic soil is considerable.

Organic soil building never ends and is infinitely sustainable.  It is a continuous cycle of adding compost to the soil, turning it and allowing it to be fallow.  Organic matter may easily be added to the soil where a composting system has been established in the garden.  Household kitchen and yard waste can easily be converted to nutritious fertiliser for the soil.  Composting with worms gives the added benefit of worm excrement to the mix.

If you are concerned about the worldwide conservation of our natural resources and the addition of chemicals to plants which you will eat, then you are probably already buying food products labelled organically grown.  Why not extend your concern to your own backyard?  Your garden, be it fruit bearing or not, will benefit from the establishment of an ecosystem devoid of chemicals.

When trees and bushes are pruned, mulch the off-cuts and use them to cover areas of the garden which are prone to weeds or become quickly dried out.  Set up a compost heap and a worm farm.  Read up on the plants in your garden, and find out how best to care for them naturally.  Having and maintaining an organic garden requires some education, initially, but it is well worth the effort.

The post Organic Soil appeared first on Mulch & Wood Chip Sales in Sydney.

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

The post How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil? appeared first on Mulch & Wood Chip Sales in Sydney.

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

The post How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil? appeared first on Mulch & Wood Chip Sales in Sydney.

How long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

A common question on mulch and wood chips is how long does it take mulch to decompose into soil?

Mulch slowly decomposing in a garden

The answer isn’t straight forward. It depends on climate, conditions, and the type of mulch. If the mulch has been treated then it will take longer to decompose than untreated mulch (the kind you get from your local tree arborist).

Why would you want to know how long it takes for mulch to decompose? Wood chip, bark mulch, and leaves consume nitrogen from the soil when it starts decomposing. It sucks out the nitrogen in order to facilitate the decomposition. What is actually happening is that the micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone and thus source it from the soil. This is why bark mulch and wood chip is so highly effective in keeping weeds down. However, if it takes too much nitrogen from the soil it will stunt the growth of the vegetation it surrounds. The good news is that as the wood chips and mulch materials decompose the nitrogen returns to the soil in addition to providing many other essential nutrients for your plants to grow.

The best gardening practice is to add nitrogen or ammonium sulphate to the soil to help the vegetation grow and speed up the decomposition of the mulch. This will prevent the nitrogen being removed from the soil and in fact provide enrichment of it. You should always refer to the product being used as to the quantity and distribution of it, as different concentrations will require different applications. If you over apply nitrogen or ammonium to your garden you can poison your plants.

A simple answer to the question is: untreated arbor mulch will take around 1 year in typical Sydney weather to start breaking down. Within 3 years it will be fully broken down and providing excellent nutrients to the soil. Treated woodchips will take longer, around 4 years to fully break down, with the start of decomposition occurring around 2 years after the mulch has been laid. The factors that directly influence the decomposition of mulch and wood chips are;

• moisture of the soil (moisture promotes decomposition)
• warmth of the soil (warmth promotes decomposition)
• if the mulch has been treated (treated mulch slows decomposition)
• any additives to the mulch (nitrogen supplements and ammonium sulphate speed up decomposition)

Beginners Guide to Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

• kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
• green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
• brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
• waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

Beginners Guide to Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

• kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
• green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
• brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
• waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.

Beginners Guide to Composting

A backyard compost bin / site

1. Select the Site

The best spot of a compost site is a place where there is good drainage and well shaded in summer. You should also make it accessible for shovelling and bringing organic waste to the site. Keep in mind that it may attract insects and have a odour.

2. What to Compost

Compost is only works on organic (carbon-based) materials. Since pretty much all plants and animals are carbon-based you can safely compost anything that used to live. Some excellent household compost items include;

• kitchen organics such as fruit and vegetables peelings and off-cuts
• green garden organics such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, and manure
• brown garden organics such as dry leaves, twigs, paper and straw
• waste products like egg shells, dead flowers, human hair, animal hair and newspapers

Be careful not to include any materials that are completely void of moisture as they will not break down. To help the compost along you should consider adding some dirt from the garden as it will contain micro-organisms that will jump start the process.

3. Layering

To build the compost you should start by building on a thick layer (15cm or greater) of  twigs or coarse mulch at the base to help with drainage. After doing that you should then layer green layers (nitrogen rich) on top of brown layers (nitrogen poor), and then moisten the brown layer and then repeat until all your organic waste is in the compost.

4. Maintaining the Compost

The final important step is to ensure that air is added to the compost so that it doesn’t start smelling. This can be done by turning it with a garden fork or by placing garden stakes or pipes through the heap to allow air to flow through. You also need to make sure the compost doesn’t get too wet either – it should be moist but not saturated.

And that is it! In 8 weeks you will have fresh organic compost that can be used as potting mix for seed raising, or to enrich soil around your favourite plants to encourage healthy plant growth, or to top dress lawns.